A memorable Mediterranean meal? That’s Greek to me

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In Astoria, on a dark, typical street under the NR train, is one of my family’s favorite restaurants, Elias Corner.

From the outside, it’s totally unassuming, but on the inside, you are sure to have one of the most lighthearted, fun and enjoyable dining experiences in the city. There is no menu, cash only and, most importantly, no fuss. 

The servers tell you what kind of fish is available that evening, and mezze and sides are usually the same. Greek Salad with feta, Tzatziki, taramosalata, spicy feta dip, fried sliced potatoes, grilled octopus, whole fish, filets and fish kebabs.

The guests run the gamut. Persians, Greeks and Israelis from the outer boroughs and Long Island, multigenerational families of city folk and couples in for a night of simple shared eating. 

For over 17 years, I pretty much can depend on getting the same thing every time. Servers with their warm, husky Greek accents, fresh fish grilled and seasoned with aromatic oregano, lemon and olive oil and some sweet loukoumades, a simple dessert of airy fried batter, drizzled with honey and dusted with cinnamon.

When I am too lazy to get to Astoria, Greek night at home gets drilled down to the basics: Grilled fish. Salad. Tzatziki. The end.

Make the trip to Queens for this most worthwhile restaurant. But until then, here is how to make a great Greek salad and my favorite mezze, tzatziki, a mixture of plain yogurt, cucumber and garlic used as a dip, side, or condiment to almost anything.  It’s especially wonderful with lamb, fish and chicken.

Greek salad
Serves 4

There is something about eating this salad ice cold that I really like. It goes against my usual inclination to eat tomatoes at room temperature. With the romaine extra cold and crisp, this salad is meant to be fresh, flavorful and light. Elias Corner serves this salad with small pepperoncini peppers, a jarred brined pepper that can be purchased in most supermarkets and specialty food stores around the city.

4 cups thinly sliced romaine

2 small Persian cucumbers, peeled and cut crosswise into slices

3 firm, ripe roma tomatoes, sliced crosswise

1/2 small white or yellow onion

4 oz. imported Greek feta

3 small pepperoncini*

Dried oregano, to taste

Freshly squeezed lemon juice, to taste

Quality olive oil, to taste

Red wine vinegar, to taste

Fine sea salt, to taste

Place the romaine in a large bowl. Set the cucumber and tomato aside. Cut the onion in half lengthwise through the root end. Peel and just shave off the dirty end, keeping the onion intact. With the widest side closest to you and the tapered side farthest, follow the lines of the onion to cut thin, lengthwise slices. 

Lightly toss the romaine with lemon juice, vinegar, olive oil and salt, to taste. Do not drench or overdo it. It should be just enough to make the lettuce shine. Decorate with cucumbers, tomatoes, onion, pepperoncini and feta. Sprinkle with oregano and another light drizzle of olive oil. Serve immediately.

Tzatziki
1 ½ quarts

*Make a nice-size batch of tzatziki and save some for the following few days.

1 qt Greek yogurt

I seedless cucumber, peeled and grated on large holes of box cutter

3 large cloves garlic, finely chopped

Sea Salt, to taste

Fresh squeeze of lemon juice

Optional: ½ cup freshly chopped dill

Place the yogurt in a bowl.  Using a clean dishtowel, squeeze the cucumber dry, saving the juices if you like for a nice vodka or gin cocktail.

Combine the yogurt, cucumber, garlic and dill if using. Season to taste with lemon juice and salt.  Refrigerate until serving. May be made up to one day ahead and stored for up to four days in the refrigerator.

Greek salad, tzatziki

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